For the rest of our week ashore in Sardinia we went to stay in Oristano, a town on the west side of the island.
Nuoro is halfway between Olbia and Oristano and I’d hoped to visit a Nuraghe close by the town but every road to the site was closed. Instead we found a Jamie Oliver recommended restaurant, Dulcinea Nuoro, for lunch! He raved about their Culurgiones, a pasta shell containing mashed potato, mint and pecorino. They were very nice! The restaurant is small but quirky and the food was good. They even have a book about the place!
We didn’t spend much time in Oristano itself, only the evenings for dinner really. It was very quiet and like much of the island it seems to be waiting for the tourist season to start. The town traces its origins back to the Byzantine Empire and being set back from the coast was easier to defend than Tharros from Saracen raids. It was the capital of one of the Sardinian kingdoms during the middle ages although little of the old town remains other than a couple of medieval fortifications and a host of churches!
We stayed in a pleasant B&B called Sa Domu e Crakeras, a sort of renovated farm house I think. It is run by a retired English teacher called Salvatore who was a mine of useful information about the area. Not only did he give excellent tourist information but he also recommended one of the best restaurants we have eaten in.
The Trattoria Portixedda was so good we ended up eating there on 3 of our 4 nights in Oristano. The place is run by a great guy called Roberto. There is no menu because they cook what is fresh in that day. Roberto just offers you meat or fish and asks whether you want a starter. It doesn’t matter what you order as the food is delicious, the portions are generous to say the least and the prices varied between 20 and 25 Euros each. Subsequently we found it is the top restaurant in Oristano on Trip Advisor, and well deserved too! With the B&B only costing 40 euros it would be worth staying over night just to eat there!
Our explorations during our three days in Oristano can be divided into two types of rock pile; Roman and Nuragic, and I found the latter far more interesting. These ancient buildings are found no where else, whereas the Romans got everywhere!