We hung around in Lakka for an extra weekend so as to arrive in Lefkas on Monday, 7 May, hoping for an engineer’s visit on Tuesday morning to assess our generator problems, until this was fixed we would be pretty much stuck in Lefkas, the last service area for a few hundred miles …… hence Languishing in Lefkas!
We had an uneventful passage from Lakka and arrived off Lefkas at about 2.45pm, as planned giving us 15 minutes to hang around waiting for the swing bridge between Lefkas and the mainland to open at 3pm.
Once through the bridge our next challenge was finding somewhere to tie up. There is a long Town Quay but it is ‘infested’ with charter boats and this early in the season there are still a lot without charterers. Our first attempt was to anchor but the holding was dubious and there was no room to swing. We ended up tying back to what was effectively an overflow town quay on a causeway leading out of town to the swing bridge, in amongst a load of unchartered charter boats. It transpired that although technically public by Wednesday the ‘Charter Company’ made it quite clear we were not welcome. Rather than push the point, on Thursday, we moved to a now vacant spot on the Town Quay for the rest of our stay at €10 per night …. mercifully we didn’t need to even think about using Lefkas Marina at €82 per night!!!
The generator problem was a not simple one and we were very grateful for the attentions of the engineer from Contract Yacht Services. Unlike Engineers from certain service companys in the UK, Panos arrived exactly when he said he would and, although it took three days of elimination, testing and phone calls to Fischer Panda in Athens, he finally identified a temperature sensor as the villain of the piece. Prior to that he found, and replaced, a leaking exhaust hose (jubilee clip probably never tightened correctly in the first place) and a burned out electrical connector (badly fitted originally). Neither of which were easy to find and neither affected the original problem. He also took the outboard and serviced that. Not our cheapest week as we also had to fill up with diesel but we now have a generator, our tender and 400 litres of fuel so are set for a summer of anchoring in isolated, hopefully, charter boat free bays.
We did have a few evenings to kill in Lefkas and found a number of very pleasant tavernas to indulge our newly rekindled hunger for Saganaki, grilled cheese, generally accompanied by a half litre of white wine and sometimes a meal. On two of these evenings we got caught in torrential rain showers, and so had to shelter in tavernas ….
Lefkas is far from picturesque or even quaint. One of the victims of the ’51 earthquake it is now a mixture of old buildings which survived, rebuilt ones finished in wriggly tin and new concrete ones. There is definitely a tourist feel to the place but there is life not involving tourists. Lefkas is a working town, heavily centred on the charter market as evidenced by the very high ‘Chandlers per Square Mile’ figure! It is lively without being overly busy and, under less traumatic circumstances, would have made a pleasant stop over.
But now, fully functional again, we are resuming our passage south. Valeria will go to the market tomorrow as I get the boat ready for sea and we plan to be away before the afternoon wind sets in!