All posts by Chris Thorne

Have had this dream of owning my own boat and sailing around the world for almost as long as I can recall – I now have the boat, so let’s see how far we get!

2017 in summary

Now that we are back in the UK visiting friends and relatives there has been a certain amount of lantern swinging and the odd ‘one that got away’ story, so I decided to do a more formal recap of 2017; and it has been a busy year.   I estimate we covered over 2500 nautical miles between leaving Olbia and reaching Roccella.   We have visited some fantastic places and spent time with our friends, old and new.

    We started the season in Sardinia and my only real plan was to get to Thassos by June to see my friend Dave and his wife Jane once they’d settled into retired life on the island.  We also had to attend Tabatha and Raffa’s wedding in Malaga in August.   Other than that we had no fixed plans but as the year progressed we made arrangements to meet friends at various points on our travels; Charlie and Anna in Sardinia, Ivan and Lu in Cephalonia, Zeinep and Steve for a trip from Athens to Thassos, Solange in Sounion, Marco and Lu in Crete and Keith in Cephalonia.   These meetings ‘filled in the blanks’ between Olbia, Thassos and Malaga and dictated our route.

    Sardinian Nuraghe

    Our first job in Olbia was getting the anti fouling renewed.   We spent the week touring the island while it was being done, discovering the unique history of the island along the way.   Once back in the water we said goodbyes to our new friends and neighbours, setting off antilockwise  around the island, taking a short detour to Bonifacio in Corsica as we were passing.

    Bonifacio port

    Our next destination was Alghero where Charlie and Ana finally came to see us, along with Ana’s nephew Mateus.  We had a fantastic few days with them before they returned home and we carried on round the island to Cagliari before making for mainland Italy.   We stayed in Salerno for a week and toured the beautiful Amalfi Coast by bus, visiting Capri by ferry.

    Coast east of Ravello
    Coast east of Ravello

    From there we headed south for Messina. We timed our voyage south to pass Stromboli at night to see the volcano erupting; it is known as the biggest lighthouse in the Med and didn’t disappoint.

    Interior of the Palatine Chapel, Palermo
    Messina Cathedral

    We called at Messina and stayed in the small marina there taking the opportunity of a weekend in Palermo; that was a really pleasant surprise.   Then, waiting for some decent weather, we headed off towards our first port of call in Greece, Argostoli on the island of Cephalonia.   John and Isabel were coming in the opposite direction and we passed them, literally ‘ships in the night’, off the south coast of Italy.

    South coast of Cephalonia

    Once in Argostoli on Cephalonia we contacted John’s friend Keith who lives on the island.  And what a fantastic guy!   He seemed to drop everything and become our personal tour guide giving us an island tour, taking us out and driving us to the supermarkets for a supply run!

    Mid way through our stay on Cephalonia we moved to anchor in a small bay on the south west corner of the island to meet Ivan, Lu, Bianca and Rebecca who had chosen their holiday to coincide with our arrival!   We anchored and picked them up from the beach by their hotel, took them for a sail around Rabbit Island, then back to Argostoli for an afternoon.

    Galaxidi
    Amphitheatre at Delphi

    From Cephalonia we continued east through the Gulfs of Patras and Corinth stopping for a couple of days at the quaint harbour of Galaxidi.   We stayed a couple of days allowing us to visit the ruins at Delphi.

    Then it was on to and through the Corinth Canal heading towards our next ‘crew change’.   We arranged to meet Zeynep and Steve in Palaia Fokaia, a port about an hour south of Athens in the Ormos Anavisou.   Again, I met them on the beach for a clandestine night time pick up.

    They sailed with us from there to Thassos, a trip of about 10 days.  Our route took us passed Sounion, Lavrio and between the islands of Evia and Andros where we anchored in the ultra secluded bay of Kastri.   Then we continued north to the delightful island of Skyros where we loitered for a few days before making for Thassos.   That was not ‘plain sailing’ as we got caught out in some thundery squalls over night and had to run for cover in the harbour of Mirina on Limnos,  before resuming our voyage.  The winds reached Beaufort Force 6, Valeria Force 10.

    ‘Moon on the Water ‘ – Ormos Kastri (photo by Zeynep)
    Linaria, floodlit water.

    We made landfall on Thassos in a delightful bay called Aliki before moving on to the port of Limenas on the north of the island.    Dave and Jane drove up to meet us and it was then I found that they lived about a mile from the port of Linaria on the south end of the island.  Limena / Linaria, so confusing!   So we actually ended up doing a complete circumnavigation of the island but it did allow us to complete Zeynep and Steve’s trip in the manner it started, dropping them off by tender on the beach in Poros, right beside the ferry terminal for their journey on to Thessaloniki and then home.

    So having circled Thassos we stayed in Linaria for a week visiting with Dave and Jane.  They made us so amazingly welcome, showing us around and introducing us to island life.   We took them sailing and then hired a car to drive around the island to see it from the dry side.   It was really good to see an ex colleague who is living his dream as well!

    Ormos Milia
    Ahilio

    From Thassos we sailed west across the peninsulas of Khalkhidiki on our way towards, then through, the rest of the Northern Sporades enjoying more delightful anchorages and quiet town quays.  We’d planned to explore a little of the Gulf of Volos but toilet troubles diverted us to Oreoi in Evia.

    Standing by for Khalkis Bridge on VHF Ch12

    From Oreoi we sailed, actually sailed, a lot of the way down the North Evia Channel to the bridge at Khalkis. Once through the bridge we headed for Olympic Marina south of Lavrion where we planned to leave the boat and go to Malaga.    On the passage from Oreoi on the north end of Evia to Olympic we had virtually every combination of wind and weather, light airs to Near Gales, and from every point on the compass, all crammed into about 4 days, finally forcing us to shelter in Ormos Marcopoulo off Port Rafti for a few days.

    Beaufort Force 7 – Valeria Force 8 – winds on way to Rafiti
    So, Va, Lu, Ma and me …….

    But a week or so later normal service resumed on the weather front and we anchored in Sounion Bay, just off the beach in front of the hotel Solange and the girls were staying in.   I ferried them to and from the beach each day in the tender and we spent a wonderful few days with them on the boat swimming and sailing and by their hotel pool before retracing our route to Olympic Marina where we said farewell to Solange, Luna and Mayara.

    Rafael and Tabatha

    With the boat secure in Olympic Marina we set off for Malaga by plane, via Istanbul, and spent almost a week in and around Malaga and Nerja celebrating Tabatha and Rafael’s marriage.

    Os Melancias !!!

    Back at Olympic we had the water maker serviced, badly, then set off south for Crete, aiming for Spinalonga Lagoon and then Agios Nikolaos where we were to meet Marco and Lu.     With almost perfect timing this was also Valeria’s birthday weekend!

    Leaving Crete we sailed north west for the Peloponese and spent our wedding anniversary in Porto Kayio before continuing on our way to Zakynthos and Cephalonia again.   We met up with Keith and Tracy in Sami, one of the stops on his Guided Tour from our previous visit!   We had a great day with them before setting off north towards Lefkas where we had arranged to rendezvous with Graeme, Jayne and Isabela in Scarlett, our friends from Olbia.  We spent the best part of a week with them in and around Sivota then continued on north to Paxos and Corfu, salvaging an abandoned tender en route.

    By now we had firmly arranged our winter berth in Roccella Ionica and so spent our last few days in Corfu in Port Mandraki, courtesy of my salvage fee, waiting for a settled period of weather for our crossing from Greece back to Italy.    Once in Roccella we found ourselves surrounded by another set of fantastic, friendly people, all doing roughly the same as ourselves!

    A busy year!

    Next year we plan to take things slower.   We’ll confine our travels to the Ionian on our way to the Cyclades and Dodecanese Islands where I plan to do a vaguely anti-clockwise trip around the islands.   This means we’ll be fairly easy to track down and generally will be within easy reach of somewhere with an airport or ferry port where we can meet friends who wish to come and visit us.

    Three weeks in Roccella Ionica

    After a very straightforward crossing from Corfu we arrived in Roccella on Tuesday morning, 2 October and began to settle in.  We have booked our flight home for the 24th and so had three weeks to prepare Windependent for our departure.

    The marina here is quite big, seems well protected from the weather and is really well organised, with fabulously friendly and helpful staff.  There is even a Community Centre for the live-aboards and free use of pedal cycles to get to town and back.

    Me, Andy,Valeria,Steph and Dani
    Dani, Valeria & Steph before
    ….. and after ….

    There is a large and growing ‘live aboard’ community of folks who will either stay here the entire winter or, like us, return home for all or part of it; so there is a fair amount of socialising to do.   As soon as we’d arrived Valeria invited our immediate neighbours for drinks and we’ve been making lots of new friends.  There is a big weekly BBQ at the ‘community centre’ and we’ve had a couple of BBQs on and around our boats.

    Sunday morning whiskey tasting
    Cycle path to Roccella

    Roccella town is about 2 km from here, hence the bikes. These aren’t always available but the walk does us good, 5 km to the supermarket and back for a start! . There are a number of hiking trails around town but the dominant feature is the castle, sometimes known as the Palazzo Carafa and the fortified tower or Pizzafalcone,  on the hills above it.   We took a walk up there on Saturday, it is only open between 4 and 8 pm at the weekends and covered around 10 km.

    The castle is being heavily redeveloped with a large EU grant and it appears it will be a museum of some description.   It is a very impressive building dating from the fifteenth century when Roccella was the seat of a Marquis, although later, in its heyday, Roccella was a Principality!

    Castle of Carafa and the Pizzofalcone watch tower
    Castle entrance and church.
    Pizzofalcone watchtower
    Roccella beach

    The weather is still very hot during the day, cooling at night and we’ve even had some very heavy rain.   Most evenings there are clouds along the coast which makes for some amazing sunsets; the sun disappears behind the castle hill but lights up the clouds from below with some spectacular results.

    But now we are preparing to return home for a couple of months and are doing our final preparations for a couple of months away from home.  We have just one more day before flying on Tuesday.

    Although we are really looking forward to seeing friends and family in the UK we’ve found a great bunch of people here in Roccella and so, even before we leave ,we’re looking forward to returning!

    Waving to Fabi’s cousins in Albania ….

    A while back Valeria said on Facebook that we were off to Corfu. Fabiana asked us to wave at her cousins across the water in Albania. Now I am pretty sure they are Erion’s cousins rather than Fabiana’s, but we waved anyway.  Apparently the cousins didn’t get the memo.

    We left Mandraki at 4pm on Sunday, 1st October for our 40 hour passage back across the Ionian to Roccella Ionica.   The first leg of this journey took us north through the North Corfu Channel, a mile wide stretch of water between Corfu and Albania, waving frantically as wé went.  We passed withing 3/4 of a mile of the Albanian coast and within a couple of miles of the port of Saranda. This is where the ferries from Corfu go and the AIS showed a British yacht in the harbour.  Something to consider when we return this way!!

    North Corfu Channel with Saranda in the distance

    By 6 pm we had turned west along the north coast of Corfu with the fishing line out and caught two large fat fish in rapid succession.  Perhaps it was just a coincidence but just as we were reeling them in and Valeria was preparing them we found ourselves being ‘chased’ by a small fishing boat, and they did seem intent on getting very close to us, so much so that I moved out of their way.  I wondered if they wanted their fish back, or perhaps it was Fabiana’s cousins ……..

    An hour or so after sunset we negotiated the small island off the north west corner of Corfu and set our course of 236ºM for the next 35 hours.

    The weather was entirely calm for the entire passage and what wind there was was astern of us all the way.   This was a 6th version of the forecast we must have missed and we made such good time that over night on Monday into Tuesday I had to slow down to keep our ETA to office hours, planning to arrive at 8 am.

    We have heard consistently good things about Roccella, which is why we came, but it was still a pleasant suprise to be called by them on the VHF at about 7.30; it was almost as if they were expecting us!   An impression reinforced when, having secured to our berth we found a Brazilian flag on the lamp post behind us!  Every lamp post in the marina sports a national flag on it, all rather old and tatty, but what are the odds of us being put next to this one!

    Although it is a little isolated Roccella does seem well organised and managed, and there is a growing ‘live aboard’ community here, comprising British, Australians, Canadians and Germans so far.  The marina is opening up the special ‘liveaboard’ shower block soon, there is to be a gym  and a language course in Italian run.  Almost a shame we’ll be leaving for the UK in November!

    But before then we have to prepare the boat to be left for the winter and plan some exploration of the local area and get to know our new neighbours.

     

    Port Mandraki and Corfu Town

    With our watermaker miraculously working and my €50 salvage fee burning a hole in my pocket we were at a bit of a loose end for a few days, so we decided to go to Port Mandraki, the small yacht club marina directly below the ‘old fort’ in Corfu.

    Port Mandraki

    It was suprisingly un crowded and we were put on the outer harbour ‘wall’. I use inverted commas because as harbour walls go it is pretty insignificant. It is between 1 and 2 metres high and about 3 metres wide, made of rock with a haphazard concrete pathway along the top.  These rocks extend out underwater in the marina and so we had to go bows onto the wall.  Our draught at the bows is about 20 cm and so there is no chance of catching anything that way round.  But that also meant we couldn’t use our gangway without some major seamanship being undertaken, so we used the marina’s plank, a 4 metre wooden scaffold board about 30 cm wide.   A disincentive to enjoying the local wine with ones lunch!

    Church of St George, against castle heights

    Once tied up and we’d negotiated the gangplank a few times hooking up the electricity and water we set off into town to explore.   The marina is right inside the old fort.  This is of Venetian vintage and as an added layer of defence they also cut a channel across the head land on which the fort is built to form a moat; the marina is on the fort side of that feature.  Walking through the Venetian Fort we rather incongruously found ourselves in a what could easily have been mistaken for a street in the Woolwich Arsenal!   Information signs then informed us that Corfu had been a British Protectorate from 1815 to 1864.  Corfu has a long and involved history and has been conquered, occupied or administered by virtually everybody at one time or another.

    Making our way out of the fort we headed into Corfu Town.   On first impressions we could easily have been in Italy, and, as towns go, it  was very pleasant to wander around.  We had lunch and even went to visit the Museum of Oriental Art.

    Museum of Oriental Art

    Old Town Hall

    That took up Friday afternoon and Saturday.  On Sunday morning, checking the weather, we suddenly found that 4 of our 5 forecasts said we’d have two days of settled weather from Sunday to Tuesday, none of those 4 actually agreed on how settled, what the wind direction might be or whether it would rain but we decided to go for it.  Our passage to Roccella was 200 miles, or 40 hours, if we left on Sunday afternoon, we’d arrive on Tuesday morning.  If we didn’t go on Sunday we’d likely be hanging around Corfu for the next week!

    So we moved berths to get closer the the fuel pump, went shopping, took on diesel and were all set to go by 4 pm on Sunday afternoon!

     

    Moving on to Corfu

    Corfu is to be our final destination in Greece before we return to Italy.  It is also where we hoped to get our watermaker fixed finally and be rid of the tender we salvaged off Lefkas.

    Sunrise over Gaios
    Sunrise over Gaios

    We set off from Gaios at 8 in the morning and had an uneventful 30 mile passage to Gouvia, or more accurately Ormos Kommino just outside Gouvia bay.   It rained on the way there then cleared up but just as I was out on the foredeck anchoring the skies opened, and the down pour lasted until just after we’d anchored!

    Ormos Kommino

    Once anchored  we set about making arrangements with the marina, the engineer and Sailing Holidays.  As the engineer could only do a Friday visit we planned to spend Thursday at anchor and go into the marina briefly for the engineer to assess the problem with the water maker on Friday morning; we had no wish to stay in the marina at €90 per night!

    On Thursday I decided to flush and run the watermaker one last time to ensure it was still not working; Sod’s Law would dictate that it would work perfectly as soon as the engineer tried it.   And Sod’s Law held true! It worked. For no discernable reason it flushed, then happily started producing fresh water!  We heaved the anchor and went for a motor for an hour or so and the watermaker worked perfectly!  We anchored back in Kommino, cancelled the engineer and arranged for the collection of the tender from the anchorage.

    On Friday morning two guys from Sailing Holidays arrived and took back their tender and even gave me a ‘salvage fee’ of €50!  That worked out as one night in Mandraki Marina so, as we’d already decided on the weekend there, we just extended the stay by a day.

    So this has been quite a successful visit!   A miraculously working watermaker, restoring a ‘lost tender’ and a free night alongside in return for our salvage operation!  And Valeria was all for just leaving it floating there!    We have also now turned our thoughts to what to do with our last few days in Greece as we wait for a two day ‘weather window’ to get from here to Roccella.

    Gaios to Lakka by bus

    On Tuesday we took the bus from Gaios for the half hour ride to the north end of Paxos to visit Lakka, another small town with a picturesque anchorage.   The countryside on the route was all olive groves with some huge old olive trees, and a surprising number of deserted , derelict buildings.   Lakka was a completely different story.  It is a small, quaint town full of shops and restaurants and set on a picturesque bay just begging to be photographed.

    Sivota to Paxos

    We said our farewells to Graeme and Jane, and Martino on Saturday evening and at 8 am on Sunday morning, Graeme and Jayne helped throw off our lines and waved goodbye from the pontoon, Isabella had gone back to bed.  ( You know who your friends are …..)

    The passage to Paxos could be made to the east or west of the island. Going east was theoretically an hour shorter than the western route but required the negotiation of the narrow channel passed Lefkada port and the bridge north of Lefkada; with perfect timing and no other yachts we might have made Paxos quicker going east.    We went west, out of Sivota, hang a right, then right again at the next light house ……. navigating is a bit more difficult than that but with GPS and Sat Nav not that much!!!!

    We put the sails up; a triumph of hope over experience and motor sailed north by north west towards Paxos, fishing line trailing; another triumph of hope over experience.

    And then …. exitement …. well, a mild over exaggeration.   I saw a small rubber boat 6 miles off the coast where no small rubber boat should be.   As we got close it became apparent that it was empty.  As we got closer we saw it marked up as belonging to SailingHolidays.com.   Now, charter boats drag their tenders, we’ve seen enough to know that, so in all likelyhood some one couldn’t tie their knots and lost it, but what if …

    Salvage ….

    So I called the Coast Guard and reported it, then took the tender in tow.  That is £800 worth of dingy!  Well it was until I saw it up close later as we dragged it on board.  My visions of claiming salvage dropped from a week in a marina to a case of beer, if I was lucky.

    Arriving at Gaios I called the Port Police as instructed by Coast Guard.  They had found the owner of the dingy,  the manager for the chater company based in Gouvia.  On phoning him it transpired he’d spent most of the afternoon being quizzed by the Police about this tender.  Oh dear, what a shame, perhaps ensuring charterers can tie knots and keep an efficient look out might help?  How can you loose a tender and not notice?   Mind you, we have a few ‘Charterboat stories’ that could answer that question.

    Unfortunately,  arriving at Paxos on Sunday afternoon we found the cute anchorage of Mongonisi packed, and the port of Gaios similarly full. Having said that I lack the Charter Boat skipper mentality which will see them drive at spaces which really don’t exist and cram in there regardless.  So we anchored off the port and spent a rather un-comfortable, and mostly sleepless night, ‘on the hook’, expecting 24 hours of rain which never materialised.

    South entrance to Gaios

    On Monday afternoon, as yachts left, we went into Gaios and found ourselves a spot on the Town Quay; then spent the afternoon watching various yacht drivers trying to reverse into gaps and fending off others mooring next to us.

    All in all a far from uneventful passage but now we’re in Gaios we’ll stay a couple of days and look around the island before moving on to Corfu.

    Sivota and the South Ionian Regatta

    Returning to Sivota was a good choice as it turned out. Busy due to the Regatta but well sheltered from the winds which were good for the races but not for passage making north! We are grateful to Martino for squeezing us in. Turns out his sister’s boyfriend is …. you guessed it …. Brazilian!

    Isabella On Watch ….

    The bay was very, very busy with every available berth taken, and the anchorage full each evening. But with all these crews in town it wasn’t as rowdy as might have been expected and we quite enjoyed our stop over. There were plenty of restaurants and tavernas, shops for essential food and fishing tackle and of course Graeme, Jayne and Isabella.

    As the week wore on the Regatta crowd slowly disappeared and normality returned although on Saturday we were entertained watching two departing yachts getting their anchors caught on submerged obstructions. One eventually freed himself through brute force but the second managed to dredge up 3 or 4 old anchor chains, all comprehensively tangled round his anchor. After a while Graeme and I went over and helped him free himself.

    On Saturday afternoon the four of us decided we needed some exercise and so took a 4 km walk up to a reputedly good winery in the hills above Sivota on the road to Lefkada. We found a taverna for refreshments half way there with fantastic views into Sivota Bay. Happily the taverna was there for refreshments half way back as well!

    Sivota Bay

    But when we got to the winery it was closed …… well, mostly. We managed to tag onto the end of an over running coach tour and after a quick tasting bought a couple of bottles! Had to be done after all the hiking to get there!

    We also had our last meal out with Graeme and Jayne that evening; the ’12 Gods’ restaurant was the best one we found in Sivota. And then we bid our farewells. It was lovely to see them again and spend time with them and we may not see them again until we return to Greece next year.  We’re pretty sure to meet up again as we’re both heading in the same general direction as each other.

    Sunset in Sivota

    We are both set to leave Sivota on Sunday although we’ll be off earlier with further to go. Paxos, here we come!

    Cruising with Scarlett

    This was a new experience for us; rather than just meeting up with people in places we set out ‘in company’ with Scarlett.

    Stenon Meganisiou
    Stenon Meganisiou
    Scarlett anchored near Port Atheni
    Scarlett anchored near Port Atheni

    We set off on Tuesday morning, the 19th, heased for the small harbour of Palairos.  It was only a couple of hours away so we stopped off in Port Atheni, a small bay known to Graeme and Jayne non the north coast of Nisos Meganisi, anchoring for lunch and a swim before resuming our passage.

    Unfortunately when we arrived at Palairos the harbour was completely full.  We found out later there is no one to take port fees and so it is effectuvely free to moor, so it is full of thrifty locals!  We then tried the almost empty harbour of Vounaki just south of there, only to be shooed away because it is a ‘Private Harbour’.   We returned to anchor off Palairos.

    Evening off Palairos

    So, settling down to our anchor, we had drinks aboard Scarlett and, being unable to wait out the next winds in Palairodecided to return to Sivota, or try to; we’d be trying to get in during the Regatta.   As we left the following morning Valeria rang Martino, who runs the pontoon we’d been on and whose number we’d taken.   Martino is Italian and Valeria used the tried and tested ‘Ciao bello! ‘ tactic and managed to secure us two berth, despite the regatta.  The passage back was great as we actually sailed most of the way back to Sivota, getting back onto Martino’s pontoon before the afternoon rush.

    It’s us …… under sail …… first ever photo!!

    And we were so lucky that Martino found us places, as the afternoon and evening wore on you needed a shoehorn to squeeze boats in and could probably walk from one side of the bay to the other across the decks of anchored yachts.

    Sivota again

    We paid up until Sunday morning when we hope to be able to set off north again towards Corfu.