Hisarönü Körfezi is the Gulf which lies south of the Datça Peninsula. It was suggested that we visit some of the bays and coves there as we made our way round to Bozburun.
Leaving Datça on Monday, 30 July, we were headed for an inlet called Bençik about 20 mlies east. In antiquity the Knidians planned to dig a canal across the peninsula at this, it’s narrowest point, as a defence against the Persians. They sought the advice of the Oracle at Delphi and were told that if Zeus wanted another island, he’d have made one. No canal was dug, the Persians arrived, Knidos fell and the Oracle carried on oracling.
But when we got there it was rammed full of gulets! Also in the Pilot Book it made mention of sharks breeding there and although the book was published 10 years ago, touchingly the Captain didn’t want her Crew Guy eaten by sharks whilst swimming our lines ashore ……. we passed on by and instead stopped in a bay a few miles further on called Kuyulu Bükü. This was quite busy but we tucked ourselves into a corner and spent the night anchored.
On Tuesday we set off for Keçi Bükü, or what is known as Girl Sand Beach. Zeynep highlighted it on her maps and according to the Pilot Book ‘Keçi Bükü is a gem‘. Unfortuneately ‘was a gem’ would be more accurate. The 10 year old Pilot Book and Zeynep’s childhood memories are, sadly, just that. The feature of the bay is a 300 m sand bar dividing the bay in half. The PB describes it as ‘a long sand bar, just under the water, which does not always show up well.’ We had no difficulty identifying it as soon as we entered the bay. I thought it was the site of a ruined jetty, but the jagged wooden posts turned out to be herds of tourists wading waist deep along the sand bar. The inner end of the bay is now full of jetties and yachts and after we’d finally managed to get our anchor to set (took 3 attempts) we decided to go back to Kuyulu Bükü!
It was only 4 miles between the two so we were back by mid afternoon and anchored in our previous corner, too shallow for the gulets, and I went ashore for a walk. There is a rough road down to the sea and I followed it for just over a kilometre looking for views over the bay. Being heavily wooded there weren’t that many but it was pleasant to wander through the woods as the sun went down.
Our next destination is Seleimiye, a large and sheltred bay on the south side of Hisarönü Koyu, where plan to spend a couple of days before getting to Bozburun.