In September 2018 Marisa came to visit and we drove to the very picturesque village of Asos on Cephalonia’s west coast. Since then I’ve wanted to visit in the boat. Asos is not the place to be in anything other than calm conditions and that was exactly the conditions we had, so off we went!
Leaving Fiskardo just before 9 on Friday, 3rd July, we headed west and south along the coast to Asos. We left early because Plan B was to return to Foki Bay just outside Fiskardo; we needed a Plan B because Asos is very small. Although it is possible to anchor and take lines ashore outside the ‘harbour’ the holding is described as ‘indifferent’.
We got to Asos at 1030 and found the ‘harbour’ was full with 3 boats, none of which looked as if they were moving. We then made 4 attempts to anchor so we could moor outside the harbour but we could not get the anchor to set all! At 1100 we gave up and switched to Plan B – back to Foki.
The trip back to Foki was uneventful and arriving there at about 1 pm we found it entirely empty. The bay is another picture post card place with crystal clear waters and a small shingle beach. We anchored in the southwest corner, took our lines ashore and settled down for the afternoon intending to do a little exploring.
On the south side of the bay is a large cave complex. You can walk around the shore and scramble down to an entrance to what looks like a series of man-made tunnels into the larger network of caves. I assume this was something from the War. The bigger, and far more interesting, entrance is only accessible from the sea and we rowed the tender in to have a look.
Immediately inside the temperature dropped really noticably as we approached the large pebble beach just inside the entrance. If you scramble over that there is a large cavern behind. The man-made tunnels lead further into the caves and end up in an enormous cavern, so big my torch couldn’t reach the roof. Turn the torch out and it was entirely, utterly pitch black and silent. I’d taken two torches, just in case, but didn’t tempt fate by venturing too far in, I mean, what could possibly go wrong !
Back on board we enjoyed a swim and then at about 8pm we were treated to a concert by the Foki Bell Ringers. Well, a herd of goats each with a bell being driven along the coast. In Vonitsa I found that the small hardware store where I bought Camping Gas actually sold Goat Bells, with or without collars, right next to the batteries!
Then the following morning the peace was shattered by a group of elderly swimmers out for thier morning constitutional. One of the swimmers was a rather large and vociferous Greek lady who must have assumed everybody was as deaf as she was. Valeria was sure the woman had an issue with us emhancing the look of her regular swimmimg spot! We waited until she’d got out of the water and then promptly left!
The forecast over the weekend and early next week was for thunderstorms. With that in mind we left delightful Foki and headed for Sami to settle down to wait them out before headind for Argostoli.
Below is an album of all the photos of Fiskardo, Asos and Foki.