Argostoli to Mesolongi

In order to avoid a 12 hour passage from Argostoli to Messolonghi we anchored over night off the south east corner of Cephalonia at a place called Skala. This is a long, quite pretty beach and the forecast held good giving us a very pleasant night at anchor.

We set off at 8.30 on Wedneday and arrived in Messolonghi at 3pm. On our last visit here in May 2018 , en route to Corinth, we simply anchored overnight. Pilotage advice said that was no longer allowed and, as the Town Quay didn’t look overly inviting, we decided on the marina. Basically a whole series of wrong decisions! We should have ‘risked’ anchoring overnight and moved right along!

The town is ‘famous’ for being the birth place of many prominent Greek Poets and Politicians and is heavily associated with the Greek War of Independence (1821-29). It sounded like an interesting place to visit!

There are descriptions of the town being ‘quaint’ and ‘pleasant’. We must have missed those bits on our wander around. Although clean it is a bit scruffy and generally rather run down. The centre of town is full of fancy looking restaurants and bars waiting for custom,. It would be a lively place when packed with hordes of Greek tourists escaping Athens for the sea side. But there is no soul to the place and even throngs of visitors wouldn’t give it that!.

Our walk around town took us to the Garden of Heros. This is a monumental garden in memory of those who gave their lives in the War of Independence, including Lord Byron whose heart is buried here. It is an impressive place but marred by the dodgy looking gropus of rough- sleepers.

The marina is described as ‘new’ but I think ‘recycled’ might be a better description. It is currently little more than a scruffy boat yard with delusions of grandeur charging marina prices. We had pencilled in a two night stay here but I was waiting outside the Marina Office at 9am when they opened and we were gone by 9.30. I was so keen to get away I almost forgot to stow the gangway! We’re off to Navpaktos.

In all a very disappointing visit. But, rather incongruously, Valeria did find the nicest ice cream she’s had in all Greece. Not Haagen Dazs, but not a total loss either!

Sailing south ….

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